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Córdoba and the search for food November 8, 2007

Posted by Emily in Spain.

After a great weekend of eating in Sevilla, I returned to Córdoba with renewed energy. Having heard that Córdoba is possibly the best place to eat in Andalucía, I decided that surely I had just not been looking hard enough or in the right places. The cafeteria food I eat every day at the school leaves much to be desired (prisoners often eat better), and my roommates mostly eat a lot of pizza and the occasional pasta with ketchup. Figured a good dinner might get me back in the groove here, since many afternoons and many nights since my arrival have been devoted to (often unfruitful) searches for food.

Since I received my placement here, I’ve been dying to try an Arabic restaurant listed in my trusty LP Andalucía guide, close to the Mezquita. The streets of the judería, the area around the Mezquita, have been aptly described as labyrinthine, so finding a specific place is sometimes sort of a challenge. I passed the Burger King across the street from the Mezquita a couple of times in my search, which only increased my anticipation for couscous and maybe some tagine. At long last, I find the street–only to find that this once authentic locale has changed its name–to Burger Expres (with one s!). C’mon Córdoba, you’re killing me! The quest continues.



1. Becky - November 9, 2007

In search of the best “Spanish flavor” of the day – ah, yes. A good way to spend an evening (only if you actually find that perfect place, however). Keep looking Emily; go into your Montana Express mode; 2 s’s. It will come!

2. ann - November 10, 2007

i totally feel you on this. i think i’ve eaten one decent meal out of the house in the 7 weeks i’ve been here…i am obviously looking in all the wrong places…on the upside, my canarian roommate is an amazing cook and i’ve got mark bittman’s “how to cook everything” so i’m still eating well…and it’s cheaper to eat at home anyway.

i will say that i dig the whole doner kabab thing as fast food. still not sick of that yet.

also the new york times travel section has a small but worthwhile section (mostly lifted from frommers?) on where to eat, with prices listed…here’s the one for córdoba:

i think i might try to hit a new place once a week (the cheap ones, that is) or maybe once every few weeks, depending on how my funds look. right now they look like they are lacking an income, because i still haven’t gotten paid.

buen suerte on the hunt for food..

3. Michelle - November 11, 2007

Thanks for the message on my blog. It was fun to hear that you experienced that same frustrating search. I wonder how many English speakers (with Lonely Planet hidden in backpack) end up at the Burger Expres out of frustration after looking for the other restaurant. I bet it is at least 5 a week.

The funny thing is that the food wasn’t so bad and as we were leaving I noticed that it serves its food halal (which is the Arabic word for Muslim kosher) so we did end up with Arabic food afterall. The chicken kabob (which was chicken in a flour tortilla was actually quite tasty and my son gobbled down the falafal so quickly that I didn’t get a taste, but he said that it was great.

If you want an INCREDIBLE couscous and tajine, go back to Granada and try Restaurante Arrayanes just off Caldereria Nueva. Everything was great–the couscous, tagine, possibly the best hummus I’ve ever had (and I’ve lived in the Middle East.) Don’t miss the mint lemonade.

Best of luck in Cordoba! Have you read Elizabeth Nash’s book Seville Cordoba and Granada: a Cultural History? Its a fun read and made my visit to Andalucia richer.

4. tagines - December 28, 2007

I’ve been in Cordoba it is such a great place, I love Andalucia

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