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Córdoba: A food guide November 20, 2008

Posted by Emily in a few of my favorite things, Andalucía, fiesta, Spain, Travel.
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I enjoyed watching the last episode of Spain…On the Road Again, even if it was different from what I expected. They did an excellent job of giving a sense of the majesty of the Alhambra, drove to Motril and Almuñécar in Granada province, two relatively unexplored parts of southern Spain, sampled tejeringos, a type of crunchy churro, and then drove through Córdoba and 5 kilometers outside the city to Medina Azahara (more on that amazing palace later). Not bad in an hour.

I read in two or three places that a few members of the crew ate in Córdoba at Sociedad de Plateros (it’s one of their top recommended restaurants), but the last episode, “A Sultan’s View of Andalucía,” featured only about ten minutes in Córdoba, and the only eating they did was toast with tomato and olive oil.  Of course, they ate it in my favorite plaza, Plaza de la Corredera, which has an amazing history dating back to Roman times–some of the mosaics uncovered here in the 1960s are on display at the Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos–and is also sort of the center of Córdoba hippie culture.

That midafternoon light I so love

Here’s a short video of the plaza (with Spanish commentary):

It’s the perfect place to spend a Sunday afternoon…first a couple of beers with friends, then a long and mellow (but huge) communally-eaten lunch, then more café hopping for café con leche and whatever else comes your way. As annoying as it may sometimes be that everything is closed on Sundays, it also means the day is intended for relaxing, socializing, and lots of eating.

But, since the food of Córdoba didn’t get much coverage in the last episode, and the city can be sort of hard to navigate, foodwise, I thought I’d highlight a few of my favorite choices. Many tourists never leave the Judería neighborhood, which is unequivocally the historical center, but is sort of a food desert–either bad touristy places with overpriced, frozen paella and a menu in eight languages or haute cuisine only really available to the upper crust of the tourist masses. But Córdoba is not lacking in good places to eat, and none of these are more than a ten or fifteen minute walk outside the main tourist areas.

Click on the individual boxes to read the full reviews I wrote on tupalo.com.

sociedad-de-plateros2

el-sotano

bar-moriles

el-torpedo

bar-santos

And if you find yourself feeling a bit peckish during that long stretch between 2 pm lunch and 10 pm dinner, there’s always potato chips.

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Spain…On the Road Again November 2, 2008

Posted by Emily in Andalucía, Spain, things that make me smile, Travel.
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I finally got around to checking out the new PBS show “Spain…On the Road Again” after having read about it in almost every single publication I know of, from The New York Times to Glamour to Food and Wine and People. It’s getting huge press, mainly because it involves Gwyneth Paltrow speaking Spanish–something she does quite well. Mario Batali of “Molto Mario” fame, New York Times food writer Mark Bittman, and Claudia Bassols, an actor from Barcelona, are also along for the ride. I recognize Bassols from some cheesy Spanish television but she’s been a good go-between for Bittman, the most monolingual of the quartet. She is apparently quite the communicator, as her English is nearly flawless, she was raised speaking Spanish and Catalan, and is also fluent in Swedish, Italian and French. Whoa.

They are driving to nearly every corner of the country, touring vineyards and sampling spas and doing lots and lots of eating along the way. Watching my first episode, I was a little put off by the occasionally slowish pace of the series, but it didn’t take me long to warm up to the format, one of the more laidback versions of reality TV that I have seen. They have good chemistry and seem to genuinely love the country–Gwyneth was an exchange student there in high school, Mario can’t stop raving about the food and culture, Bittman seems to be discovering a lot and surprising himself. It’s nice to see Spanish food getting some mainstream respect–so much that’s famous about the cuisine has yet to really come to the U.S. Jamón ibérico/serrano/de bellota, the famous Spanish ham that can best be called a more interesting version of prosciutto, is a key example, as it’s a cornerstone of Spanish food and yet is rarely imported and almost impossible to get your hands on in this country. When you can, it’s generally of a quality that would make Spanish mothers cluck and shake their heads.

The episode in two weeks will take us to Andalucía, with a stop in Córdoba and lunch at Sociedad de Plateros, a cordobés institution where I passed innumerable Sunday afternoons with friends. Apparently, they’ll be sampling the local specialties salmorejo, like a very tomato-y and smoother gazpacho, and flamenquín, jamón serrano rolled in pork, which is then breaded and fried…and often dipped in mayo. Check out their Andalusian itinerary, along with recipes and blogs from the show’s stars. I’m looking forward to hearing their take on the food and culture of the city where I spent the last year. As my sister pointed out tonight, Gwyneth uses the best adjectives–“exquisite” “increíble” “fantástico” and “luscious” in Barcelona tonight.

Sunday evenings on PBS. It’s a fun little departure from a sometimes drab afternoon.